Category: molding

Basic Node for the Internet of Sex Toys (part 1)

Wemos mini modules: ESP8266, motor driver and battery charging (in the middle); Wireless charging module (right side); wireless charging coil (top side); encapsulated vibration motors (left side)

In previous posts we showed how to build a vibrating sex toy in principle as part of the Internet of Things (IOT). In addition we have selected a hardware platform – the popular ESP8266 – for controlling a vibrator motor, gathering motion data and connecting to the internet. Now we want to build the toy itself.

part 1: Basic  Node for the Internet of Sex Toys

part 2: Molding the Basic Node

part 3: Software for the Basic Node

Brief Review of development boards

There are a lot of development boards which are equipped with the ESP8266. The popular NodeMCU was already introduced here. Here is a quick overview and comparison:

NodeMCU

  • plus: very popular, cheap, USB connector for programming
  • minus: quite large (for being part of a sex toy), no support for battery charging

Adafruit Feather Huzaah ESP

  • plus: USB connector for programming and battery charging, smart form factor (only 23 mm wide), very good support (libraries, tutorials)
  • minus: quite expensive

WeMos D1 mini (pro)

  • plus: very cheap, USB connector for programming, additional stackable modules (eg. battery charging, TFT screens, motor driver), good form factor
  • minus: no real support (but there is a forum, problems with modules reported

ESP8285 (variant of the ESP8266)

  • plus: really small (!!!) and smart form factor, USB programming and battery charging, optional sensors on board (but no motion sensors)
  • minus: quite expensive, only 1MB memory (nevertheless enough for a lot of application)

For our project we selected the WeMos mini cause we get almost everything we need:

  • USB connector for programming
  • module for battery charging
  • module for a motor driver
  • good form factor (eg. to be put in a vibrator handle or in the base of a dildo)
  • cheap, fast delivery

But there is no shield for motion detection (accelerometer,gyroscope). So we have to use an additional board eg equipped with the MPU9250.

But there is a problem with the WeMos motor shield: After a few seconds it stopped working. And in addition the MPU9250 stopped working, too. Hours and hours we tried different configurations, changed the libraries … The problem was the motor driver shield itself. Fortunately there is an easy work around. Read here.

Another issue is the battery shield. It has an extra USB connector for charging the battery. So you have two USB connectors (one for battery charging and one for uploading). Two USB connectors are not handy. Fortunately we can do without the USB connector for uploading as it is possible to update the software over the air (OTA) using WiFi.

Material

As the body interaction philosophy uses motion for controlling the device we have to add the MPU. Again we use the MPU9250 which has an accelerometer, gyroscope and magnetometer.

Another insight was that you need at least a switch for rebooting. As we want to mold everything the switch must meet the IP67 requirements, which means it is water- (and silicone) proof. If you don’t want to mold the electronics you can use the RESET button on the WeMos mini board.

A perfect basic node has a wireless charging option, too.

Material list for the basic node:

  • Wemos mini board
  • Wemos motor driver shield
  • Wemos battery shield
  • Wemos prototyping board
  • Wemos set of pins
  • LiPo battery (eg. 3,7V 650mAh, 2C, JST plug, available at ebay)
  • MPU 9250 board (for motion control)
  • 1 or 2 encapsulated vibration motors, 3V, available at Alibabaexpress
  • Optional: Switch IP 67 protected (eg. Cherry Switches DC1C-K8AA IP67) – for molding
  • Optional: Wireless charging receiver 5V eg from Seeed Studio

Material: battery shield, Wemos mini ESP8266, motor shield, MCU9250 (first row), LiPo battery, switch, vibration motor (second row)

 

Soldering the basic node

We use one connector (part of the Wemos set of pins) to connect the Wemos mini with the battery shield and the motor shield. This is done to save space. If your application has enough space you would use one connector for every shield.

Battery shield, Wemos mini ESP 8266, motor shield (from top to bottom)

Now have a look at the bottom side where the motor shield should be. We can connect up to 2 motors. Solder motor 1 to A1 and A2. Motor 2 has to be soldered to B1 and B2. In addition we need input power for the motor. We just use the 5V provided by the Wemos mini battery shield. Connect 5V to VM and GND (from the pins) and GND. But you could use other (more powerful) power sources, too.

Wemos offers a prototyping board. We use it for mounting the switch and for the MPU9250. Connect the MPU9250 to the bottom side of the prototyping board. Therefore 4 pins have to be soldered

Solder pin (1 row, 4 pins)  on the top side next to TX, RX, D1, D2

 

Now look at the bottom side of the prototyping board. Put the MPU 9250 so that VCC, GND, SDA, SCL are connected to the pins.

Next, solder the MPU 9250.

Then add more pins to the prototyping board at both sides. The picture shows the bottom side of the prototyping board.

Now wire the prototyping board. The picture shows the top side.

Now you can add the switch. Place it in the middle of the board on the top side. Connect GND and RST to the switch. Now you have a switch for rebooting which can be molded.

Now we have both parts ready and can stack them together.

Stack them together!

Now add the LiPo battery, which should have a JST header. Now your basic node is ready.

Wireless charging option

Especially for sex toys a wireless charging option is reasonable as this is a requirement for silicone molding of the toy.  And when the toy is molded it is safe and washable.

The wireless charging module consists of a sender (or transmitter module) and a receiver module. You have to solder the receiver module to the battery shield. Don’t mix the modules.

unfortunately there is only  a USB connector. If you don’t want to remove the USB connector you can solder the red (+) wire to the R330 resistor as shown on the pictures. The black (-) wire can be soldered to any pin labeled (GND).

Now put the receiver module on top of the battery module.

Now stack the protoytping board on top of the battery shield.  And connect the battery.To charge the battery connect the sender (or transmitter) module to 5V. To power the sender module you may use a USB port power source which has about 500mAh or more. Place sender and receiver coil about each other.  For a more professional charging solution you need a charging station. The making of a charging station using 3d printing is described here.

Learn how to construct the mold form:

part 2: Molding the basic node

part 3: Software for the basic node

Smooth 3d printed vibrator form for silicone molding

shinybluemoreorlesscompleteWe started with printing sex toys (see here, here and here), then moved to printing mold forms for sex toys and finally we made sex toys which are partially silicone molded and partially printed. The best results were achieved with printing mold forms and fill them with silicone. But even there we have the problem that the surface isn’t really smooth and that it is hard to clean.

 

xtcTo overcome this problem we use a 3d print smoothing (XTC 3D) to smooth the surface. Application is very easy. It is like applying a transparent varnish. The results are impressive: The silicone gets a smooth shiny surface.

Shiny blue vibrator with vibration motor and air bubble in silicone formBut you can still see printer artefacts. To overcome this issue you could apply a thicker layer of XTC-3D. If you use a better printer than my daVinci 1.0 the “staircase effect” shouldn’t be a  problem at all. Another problem are tiny – sometimes quite large – air bubbles. To remove this air bubbles you need a vacuum chamber. So it is still not perfect, but it works and looks quite good…shinybluecomplete

OpenSCAD as silicone molding form generator


scadmoldform1tryballs_revisited_3_finalAn alternative to 3d-printed sex toys are silicone toys. For making such a sex toy you need a molding form, where you pour in the silicone. If you use Tinkercad to build the form for the balls motive, you may need more than one hour. If you are not experienced in 3d constrcution it may take days. That’s ok and can be fun as you can realize your fantasies step by step.

 

 

molded-with-ueberh-querBut if you want to change a detail or want to resize some parts of it, it will take a long time as you have to unbuilt parts of the form, make changes and then reassemble. Sometimes building from scratch is faster.

In the last blog post we have introduced OpenSCAD to construct a sex toy form. Now we want to build a hull for the sex toy for overmolding.

The basic idea is very simple:

  • Generate two forms. The smaller one has the size of the sex toy you want to make. The larger one will be the form where you pour in the silicone.
  • Than use the OpenSCAD difference command which “subtracts” or cuts out the smaller form from the larger form.

But it is more complicated:

  • You have to include a frame otherwise the form would fall over.
  • You need two forms (A and b) so you could open the form after molding.
  • Both forms must be fastened together when molding. Therefore you need holes for tinkering wire.

bi-round-12-scadWe have created a solution for molding form generation which is as flexible as our OpenSCAD sex toy generator. In addition you can change the thickness of the frame. Therefore you have to change the variable frame_thickness.

The SCAD script uses the module base which is already introduced. The generation of the frame is done in the module frame. The frame consists of a base plate and two supporting frames which stabilize the whole form. In addition there are extensions to the frame in the upper part of the form. These extensions will provide holes for fastening both forms.

The module complete_form constructs the form which is tricky. The union command is used to join the complete outer form and the frame. Now we have a filled form and have to remove the inner part. This is done by subtracting another complete form which is a bit smaller than the outer form. This is done with the difference command.

Another module hole provides all holes for the tinkering wire. At last we construct part A and part B of the molding form. Again the difference command is used to cut out one half of the form. This is done by subtracting a cube which is placed in the middle of the complete form. In addition the holes must be subtracted from the complete form.

You can build in the body interaction vibrator development board to make a vibrating dildo, controlled by motion or by another body interaction vibrator development board. Read more here.

Try out with the Thingiverse customizer.

Download the zipped SCAD file here: bi1-round12

Or copy and paste the source code to the SCAD software:

// bodyinteraction toy form and mold form generator
// radius of bottom part
r_bottom=25; // [15:5:80] 
// height of bottom part
h_bottom=30; // [10:5:80] 
// top rounding of bottom part
rounding=10; // [10:5:20]
// radius of ball 1 
r_ball1=21; // [15:5:50] 
// radius of ball 2
r_ball2=15; // [15:5:50] 
//radius of ball 3 
r_ball3=11; // [15:5:50] 
// radius of connecting cylinders
connector_radius=8; // [10:2:20]
// distance between balls and bottom part
ball_distance=15; // [10:2:40]
// offset (thickness of hull)
o=2; 
// thickness of frame
frame_thickness=4; 

height=h_bottom+3*ball_distance+r_ball1*2+r_ball2*2+r_ball3*2; echo(height);


// form part A
translate([0,0,height+frame_thickness])rotate([0,180,0])
difference() {
 complete_form(r_bottom,h_bottom,rounding,r_ball1,r_ball2,r_ball3,connector_radius,ball_distance,o,frame_thickness,height);
union(){
 translate([-r_bottom-o-10,0,-5])
 color("red")cube([2*r_bottom+2*o+20,r_bottom+2*o,height+frame_thickness+5]);
 holes(height,h_bottom);
 }
}
//form part B
translate([90,0,height+frame_thickness])rotate([0,180,0])
difference() {
 complete_form(r_bottom,h_bottom,rounding,r_ball1,r_ball2,r_ball3,connector_radius,ball_distance,o,frame_thickness,height);
union(){
 translate([-r_bottom-o-10,-r_bottom-o-2-10,-5])
 color("red")cube([2*r_bottom+2*o+20,r_bottom+2*o+10,height+frame_thickness+5]);
 holes(height,h_bottom);
 }
}

module holes (height,h_bottom){
for (i=[h_bottom+30:10:height])
 translate([r_bottom-1,5,i])rotate([90,90,0])
 color("green")cylinder(h=15,r=1,$fn=20);

for (i=[0:10:h_bottom+20])
 translate([r_bottom-3+10,5,i])rotate([90,90,0])
 color("blue")cylinder(h=15,r=1,$fn=20);

for (i=[h_bottom+30:10:height])
 translate([-r_bottom+1,5,i])rotate([90,90,0])
 color("green")cylinder(h=15,r=1,$fn=20);
for (i=[0:10:h_bottom+20])
 translate([-r_bottom-6,5,i])rotate([90,90,0])
 color("blue")cylinder(h=15,r=1,$fn=20);
}

module complete_form (r_bottom,h_bottom,rounding,r_ball1,r_ball2,r_ball3,connector_radius,ball_distance,o,frame_thickness,height) {
 difference() {
 union() {
 base(r_bottom+o,h_bottom+o,rounding,connector_radius+o,ball_distance-2*o,r_ball1+o,r_ball2+o,r_ball3+o);
 //complete frame
 frame(2*r_bottom+2*o,o,height,frame_thickness,r_bottom,h_bottom,rounding);
 };
 base(r_bottom,h_bottom,rounding,connector_radius,ball_distance,r_ball1,r_ball2,r_ball3);
 
 
};
}

module frame(width,o,height,frame_thickness,r_bottom,h_bottom,rounding) {
 //plate
 translate([-width/2,-width/2-2*o,height]) cube(size=[width,width+2*o,frame_thickness]);
 //frame1
 translate([-width/2,-frame_thickness/2,0]) cube(size=[width,frame_thickness,height]);
 //frame 1 extensions
 translate([-width/2-010,-frame_thickness/2,-5]) color("blue")cube(size=[12,frame_thickness,60]);
 translate([-width/2-10,-frame_thickness/2,55]) color("red")rotate([0,45,0]) cube(size=[12,frame_thickness,20]);
 
 translate([+width/2-2,-frame_thickness/2,-5]) color("green")cube(size=[12,frame_thickness,60]);
 translate([+width/2+01,-frame_thickness/2,47]) color("green")rotate([0,-45,0]) cube(size=[12,frame_thickness,20]);
 //frame2
 translate([-frame_thickness/2,-width/2,0]) cube(size=[frame_thickness,width, ,
 height]);
 // stabilize bottom with cylinder
 color("green")translate([0,0,h_bottom])rotate([00,0,0180])
 cylinder(h=r_bottom*2-rounding*.5, r1= r_bottom-rounding, r2=0);

}

module base (r_bottom,height,rounding,connector_radius,ball_distance, c1,c2,c3) {
 union () {
 // connector
 color("white")cylinder(h=height+2*ball_distance+c1*2+c2*2+c3*2,r=connector_radius,$fn=60);
 //base
 color("DarkSlateBlue") cylinder (h=height-0,r=r_bottom-rounding,$fn=60);
 color("MediumSlateBlue")cylinder (h=height-rounding,r=r_bottom,$fn=60);
 translate([0,0,height-rounding]) color("SlateBlue") rotate_extrude() 
 translate([r_bottom-rounding,0,0]) circle(r=rounding,$fn=120);
 // circle (ball) 1, 2 and 3
 translate([0,0,height+ball_distance+c1]) color("Indigo")sphere(r=c1,center=true,$fn=60);
 translate([0,0,height+2*ball_distance+2*c1+c2]) color("Violet")sphere(r=c2,center=true,$fn=60);
 translate([0,0,height+3*ball_distance+2*c1+2*c2+c3]) color("Purple")sphere(r=c3,center=true,$fn=60);
 }
}

 

Go to the first part of the SCAD tutorial

Moving dildo with motor driven skeleton

skeleton-without-hull-servo-bi1So far we have used vibration motors for our sex toys. Vibration motors are cheap, powerful, easy to control and robust actuators. That’s why they are part of most sex toys. But what about moving or touching  objects. Obviously we need some mechanics, maybe joints and gears? Or is there a simple option? A skeleton?

I realized the idea for using some type of skeleton for moving a dildo when I saw the video of a naked Pleo – one of the best artificial life forms ever.

skeleton-hull-servo-body-interaction-board

On www.thingiverse.com you will find more inspiration for using a skeleton to move something. The design is very simple.

The skeleton is composed of a number of vortexes. The holes are for connecting all vortexes and a servo with a nylon wire or similar.

backbone_skeleton_24

In addition we need a handle where the vortexes are fastened to. There is also space for a servo. Then use a nylon wire to connect the vortexes with the servo. You can drive the servo with a Arduino development board or you use the body interaction development board as described here.

servo_handle_b

The servo should turn only 15-30 degree or so. If you use the body interaction development board please copy the following code and upload the code to the board.

#include <TinyServo.h>

// servo control with the body interaction development board using the TinyServo library
// -- adaption of the demo script by
// tylernt@gmail.com's ATTiny Hardware Timer Assisted Servo Library v1.0 20-Nov-13
// http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=198337.0;attach=71790

const byte SERVOS = 1; // number of servos is 1
const byte servoPin[SERVOS] = { 7 }; // servo is connected to PA1 which is pin 7
#define SERVO 0 // our servo is given the name "SERVO"

void setup() {
 setupServos();
}

void loop() {
 moveServo(SERVO, 0); // move servo to 0°
 delay(1000);
 moveServo(SERVO, 30); // move servo to 30°
 delay(2000);
}

In addition we need a wrapping for the skeleton. This can be made using these two forms (download STL files).

nonmech

Use flexible silicone and poor it in the form. The thickness of the wrapping is a bit too large – it rather hinders the skeleton in its movements. But it works!

sceleton-hull

Now we can put everything together.

 

Download on Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1736282

 

Tinker with Tinkercad!
Form: https://tinkercad.com/things/e8yscABu9Al
Skeleton: https://tinkercad.com/things/dfbMQsE4Mtl
Servo handle: https://tinkercad.com/things/5EHHrqM5sqC

YouTube: https://youtu.be/F1b8bGbuSHw

New small fusion vibrator

fusion-small-side-viewThis is a small version of the fusion vibrator. The small fusion form for molding can be made with 3d printers with smaller volume. In addition the inlay for the body interaction development board is reduced in size, but there is still enough place for board and battery. Only about 120ml silicone are needed. The form was constructed in Tinkercad.

Modify the form in Tinkercad: all forms, inlay only, form only

Download the STL files for printing: round_something_06_final_inlay_improved. There are some artifacts but printing is fine on the daVinci 1.0.

Download and discuss in Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1589075

round_something_06_final

Please follow the instruction from the large fusion vibrator. When you poor the silicone into the form it is very important to keep the USB connector free from silicone. Even very small amounts can cause the USB connector to break apart from the board.  When the USB connector is broken then you cannot recharge the vibrator. Also be always very cautious when you plug-in or plug-out the USB connector.

Finally you can remove the overhanging parts from the inlay.

fusion-small-top-view

 

New vibrator design “fusion”

 

fusion-quer-look-throughbodyinteraction designed a lot of vibrating toys, some are usable as massage devices, some are explicit sex toys (vibrator ring, balls), some are experimental (collar). Everyone is motion controlled. If you have more than one they will influence each other remotely, eg. a vibrator and a vibrator ring.

unboxing-3

But a device like a classic big vibrator is still missing. So we designed the “fusion” which is approx 19cm long and up to 4+cm in diameter. It is called fusion as the case is made of silicone and 3d printed material (ABS).

fusion-quer-2

We have put the body interaction vibrator development board, motor and battery in a silicone form. There is an on/off switch – so when you travel the vibrator doesn’t wake up when it is moved. And you can charge the battery with a USB micro connector. There is a spacious inlay for the electronics, so it will be easy to get it done.

Pros:

  • easy to charge the battery via USB
  • on/off switch
  • hard handle
  • flexible upper part
  • large (if you like this)
  • ISP interface (“hacker port”) accessible

Cons:

  • only the silicone part of the form can be put under water for cleaning

What do you need?

  • 200 ml silicone with high shore A rate, eg. shore A 45 from silikonfabrik.de
  • optional: special colour for silicone molding
  • 3d print of the molding form, inlay and closure
  • tinker wire
  • body interaction vibrator development board with LiPo and motor (or similar Arduino boards)
  • bin for preparing the silicone, something to stir the silicone

How much is it?

  • Board, battery, motor: 30$ (buy at Tindie)
  • Silicone: 10$
  • 3d Prints: less than 5$

Step by step instructions

Step 1: Print out the inlay, the form and the enclosure

round_something_05_final

Download as zip-file: Fusion

Download at Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1505539

Step 2: Prepare the inlay: Insert the body interaction board and the LiPo battery

The body interaction vibrator development board is inserted into the provided rails. It it doesn’t fit in use a file to remove printing artefacts. Use some glue to fix the board. Then insert the battery and fix it.

Important: The Micro USB connector must be above the upper part of the inlay.

inlay with description

Step 3: fix the wires of the vibration motor

The vibration motor will hang down from the inlay as the inlay will be put in the form upside down. You can influence the position of the motor by shortening the wire or fixing the wire to e.g. to the battery. In this case the wire of the motor was threaded between battery and board. Therefore the  motor will be in the middle of the vibrator.

inlay-inner-partfusion-looking-through-2in the center there is the overmolded vibration motor

Step 5: Prepare the form

Use some tinker wire to “press” both parts of the form tight together.molding-form-emptyUse some wax to fix little holes in the form where the printer failed. (These are the white spots)

drying-form-with-wax

Step 6: Insert inlay into the form

There must be some space between inlay and form for the silicone.

Remark: The two wedge like forms at both sides of the inlay help to hold the inlay. The wedge can be removed after molding.inlay-in-molding-form

Step 7: Cast the silicone

Prepare the silicone as the producer recommends. It takes some time to pour the large amount of silicone into the narrow form. The silicone we use must be used within 10 minutes. So start at once after preparing the silicone.

Important: The USB micro connector, the switch and the ISP connector shouldn’t be dashed with silicone. If this happens remove the silicone. Maybe some silicone will remain behind. This can be removed later when the silicone is solid.molded

The battery is covered with silicone, the USB connecor and switch are not.drying-seen-from-top

Step 8: Remove the form

Remove the tinker wire. Remove overhanging part of the silicone. Carefully tear both parts of the form away. You can use a knife, but be careful not to “hurt” the vibrator. Remove overhanging silicone at the vibrator. Also remove the two wedge like forms at both sides of the inlay.

unboxing-fusionfusion looking through complete

Step 9: Install the closure

Now you can put the closure on the inlay. Fix the closure with glue. (Be careful! The USB connector is not very strong.) closed-inlayround_something_055_final_cap_onlyfusion-closure

Tinker, share and download from Tinkercad:

form and inlay: https://tinkercad.com/things/b8nQxRn4XWl

closure: https://tinkercad.com/things/dhgtgeaYG0B

Download as zip-file: Fusion

Download at Thingiverse:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1505539

 

New fusion 3d printed and silicone molded vibrator

fusion tinkercadThis is the initial design. The round curved form will be in silicone with vibration motor within (vibration motor not shown on sketch). The red part is 3d printed. It is the enclosure for the body interaction vibrator development board and LiPo battery. You can plug-in the Micro USB connector for battery charging. In addition there is an on/off switch e.g. for travelling.

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