Category: molding

New vibrator design “fusion”

 

fusion-quer-look-throughbodyinteraction designed a lot of vibrating toys, some are usable as massage devices, some are explicit sex toys (vibrator ring, balls), some are experimental (collar). Everyone is motion controlled. If you have more than one they will influence each other remotely, eg. a vibrator and a vibrator ring.

unboxing-3

But a device like a classic big vibrator is still missing. So we designed the “fusion” which is approx 19cm long and up to 4+cm in diameter. It is called fusion as the case is made of silicone and 3d printed material (ABS).

fusion-quer-2

We have put the body interaction vibrator development board, motor and battery in a silicone form. There is an on/off switch – so when you travel the vibrator doesn’t wake up when it is moved. And you can charge the battery with a USB micro connector. There is a spacious inlay for the electronics, so it will be easy to get it done.

Pros:

  • easy to charge the battery via USB
  • on/off switch
  • hard handle
  • flexible upper part
  • large (if you like this)
  • ISP interface (“hacker port”) accessible

Cons:

  • only the silicone part of the form can be put under water for cleaning

What do you need?

  • 200 ml silicone with high shore A rate, eg. shore A 45 from silikonfabrik.de
  • optional: special colour for silicone molding
  • 3d print of the molding form, inlay and closure
  • tinker wire
  • body interaction vibrator development board with LiPo and motor (or similar Arduino boards)
  • bin for preparing the silicone, something to stir the silicone

How much is it?

  • Board, battery, motor: 30$ (buy at Tindie)
  • Silicone: 10$
  • 3d Prints: less than 5$

Step by step instructions

Step 1: Print out the inlay, the form and the enclosure

round_something_05_final

Download as zip-file: Fusion

Download at Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1505539

Step 2: Prepare the inlay: Insert the body interaction board and the LiPo battery

The body interaction vibrator development board is inserted into the provided rails. It it doesn’t fit in use a file to remove printing artefacts. Use some glue to fix the board. Then insert the battery and fix it.

Important: The Micro USB connector must be above the upper part of the inlay.

inlay with description

Step 3: fix the wires of the vibration motor

The vibration motor will hang down from the inlay as the inlay will be put in the form upside down. You can influence the position of the motor by shortening the wire or fixing the wire to e.g. to the battery. In this case the wire of the motor was threaded between battery and board. Therefore the  motor will be in the middle of the vibrator.

inlay-inner-partfusion-looking-through-2in the center there is the overmolded vibration motor

Step 5: Prepare the form

Use some tinker wire to “press” both parts of the form tight together.molding-form-emptyUse some wax to fix little holes in the form where the printer failed. (These are the white spots)

drying-form-with-wax

Step 6: Insert inlay into the form

There must be some space between inlay and form for the silicone.

Remark: The two wedge like forms at both sides of the inlay help to hold the inlay. The wedge can be removed after molding.inlay-in-molding-form

Step 7: Cast the silicone

Prepare the silicone as the producer recommends. It takes some time to pour the large amount of silicone into the narrow form. The silicone we use must be used within 10 minutes. So start at once after preparing the silicone.

Important: The USB micro connector, the switch and the ISP connector shouldn’t be dashed with silicone. If this happens remove the silicone. Maybe some silicone will remain behind. This can be removed later when the silicone is solid.molded

The battery is covered with silicone, the USB connecor and switch are not.drying-seen-from-top

Step 8: Remove the form

Remove the tinker wire. Remove overhanging part of the silicone. Carefully tear both parts of the form away. You can use a knife, but be careful not to “hurt” the vibrator. Remove overhanging silicone at the vibrator. Also remove the two wedge like forms at both sides of the inlay.

unboxing-fusionfusion looking through complete

Step 9: Install the closure

Now you can put the closure on the inlay. Fix the closure with glue. (Be careful! The USB connector is not very strong.) closed-inlayround_something_055_final_cap_onlyfusion-closure

Tinker, share and download from Tinkercad:

form and inlay: https://tinkercad.com/things/b8nQxRn4XWl

closure: https://tinkercad.com/things/dhgtgeaYG0B

Download as zip-file: Fusion

Download at Thingiverse:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1505539

 

New fusion 3d printed and silicone molded vibrator

fusion tinkercadThis is the initial design. The round curved form will be in silicone with vibration motor within (vibration motor not shown on sketch). The red part is 3d printed. It is the enclosure for the body interaction vibrator development board and LiPo battery. You can plug-in the Micro USB connector for battery charging. In addition there is an on/off switch e.g. for travelling.

Update for “balls revisted” – silicone molded vibrator

balls-revisited-v3-wit-v4-inlay-blueThe “ball revisited” silicone molded vibrator uses a wireless charging module. Unfortunately there are different version available. The version with some textile like cable jackets have a different inner radius of the receiver coil.new-inlay-from-topWe have changed the mounting on top of the picture as this type of the receiver coil needs a little more space. In addition the encasement is a bit larger. new-inlay-seen-from-side-BThere is enough space for the body intercation board (top), wireless charging board (right) and the LiPo battery (below).new-inlay-seen-from-side-BFinally the wire of the vibration motor is glued in the middle of the encasement.new-inlay-from-belowPlease follow the “old” instruction – nothing has changed. When printing out the 3d parts use the new version 4 of the inlay. All 3d printing STL files at Thingiverse

 

Silicone overmolded vibrator – balls revisited

molded-quermolded-with-ueberh-querBuilding your own silicone molded vibrator becomes now easier. We already have presented 3d printed forms for building your personal vibrator (massage wand, wireless charged vibrator). The vibrator uses the body interaction vibrator development board. The body interaction board has a Arduino compatible microcontroller, vibration strength control by motion, a vibration motor and a rechargeable battery.

 

balls_revisited_3_inlay_part_bWhat is new? The electronics including battery are in the base of the vibrator. We developed a 3d printed enclosure for the electronics. This has several benefits: The assembling of the electronics and the molding itself is easier as everything is fixed within the enclosure. And it is more safe as the enclosure shields the electronics from the environment (and vice versa). In addition we used a different charging module from Seeed Studio. The input voltage is only 5V. Now you can connect the charging module with a USB connector and don’t need another power supply. (Look here for an explanation of wireless charging sender and receiver.)

overmolded-vibration-motor

Another improvement is the placing of the vibration motor. The vibration motor can now be placed in the center of the vibrator and it different heights. Just were you need the power.

balls_revisited_3_inlay_part_aFinally the mounting is improved. The mounting holds the enclosure when it is inserted into the form.

balls_revisited_3_finalThe mounting (together with the enclosure with the electronics) is inserted into the form. The form consists of two parts which must be fastened together by tinker wire. It is a variation of the ball theme.

We present a step by step procedure for tinkering the vibrator. You need:

  • 3d printed form (molding form, 2 parts)
  • 3d printed enclosure
  • 3d printed mounting
  • body interaction vibrator development board
  • silicone with a high shore A value (eg. shore A 45 which is quiet hard but still flexible), approx. 100 ml
  • wireless charging module eg. from Seeed studio
  • soldering station, (hot) glue

Step by step procedure:

A. Print out all forms. You can download the forms from Thingiverse.

wireless-charging-sender-and-receiver-line-pf

B. Connect the wireless charging module to the body interaction vibrator development board.

B.1 You have to solder a wire connecting (-) on the wireless charging module and GND on the body interaction board.

B.2 Now comes the tricky part. You have to connect (+) from the charging module with the body interaction board. Solder a wire at (+) of the charging module. But where do you solder the wire on the body interaction board? Unfortunately the wireless charging option was not taken into consideration during the development of the board. So there is no appropriate connection on the board.

circuitThe best solution is to unsolder the USB connector and connect to + of the USB connection. The easiest way to unsolder the surface mounted USB connector is done with a hot air soldering station.  Alternatively you can solder the wire directly to the MAX1555 module – this solution is presented here. In any case: Be careful not to break the tiny pads connecting pcb and USB connector.

B.3 Connect the sender module with a 5V power supply. You can use a USB cable, dismantle the cable and connect the black and red wires.

inlay-with-coil

C. Place the receiver charging coil on top of the enclosure. The diameter of the top side is a bit larger than the diameter of the bottom side. Use some glue to fix the coil. Don’t fix the mounting now. It is easier to do it later (step E).

enclosure

D. Put the electronics into the enclosure: Begin with the body interaction board. The RFM12b is quite large so place it at an outer position. Then insert carefully the LiPo battery. Don’t force it! The plugs for the battery and the motor could break. If you have done so insert the tiny wireless charging receiver board. At the end fix the wires of the vibration motor in the middle of the enclosure.

E. Connect the mounting with the enclosure. There are 2 holes provided where the mounting fits into the enclosure. Use some glue to stick together both parts. (see picture above step C).

 

form-unfilled-with-inlay

F. Put together both parts of the molding form. Use tinkering wire to attach both parts tight together. Then insert the enclosure into the form. Check the wireless charging function. The yellow LED must be on when you place the charging coil over the receiver coil.

molded-form

G. Now poor silicone into the molding. We use Shore A 45 silicone which is rather hard. The silicone has to dry for some hours or days. Read the instructions of your silicone provider.

opening-form

H. When the silicone is hard, you can remove the tinkering wire. Then carefully remove the form.

form-removedform-molded-top-down

I. Remove the overhang.

wireless-chargin-test

J. Test the wireless charging. The orange LED must be on when both coils are near together.

molded-bottom IMG_20160303_184830

K. Remove the mounting.

 

Design your own forms using Tinkercad. Start now and share!

Old versions of the enclosure:Enclosure & mounting togther, Enclosure , Mounting

Download the STL files for 3d printing from Thingiverse.

Update 2016/03/12: Added image of circuits showing where to solder the wireless charging module.

Update 2016/04/05 redesign of mounting and enclosure due to different versions of the wireless charging receiver coil

Wireless battery charging of the body interaction vibrator development board

bisiliconeformfilledreadybigsiliconereadyvogel2One major Problem oft DIY electronic sex toys (or massage wands) are the need to charge the batteries. Usually the batteries are charged via the USB connector. This means that there is a physical connection between the sex toy and the USB connector, making it impossible to mold the whole sex toy with eg. silicone.

 

 

seeedwirelesscharging

The solution is to use a wireless charging module (eg. this module from Seeedstudio). It comes in two parts: The sender (IN) and the receiver (OUT). Both are connected with a coil. If you place the two coils close together, the sender coils induces power in the receiver coil. Though you can share the batteries wireless. The receiver could be molded, separating the electronics, batteries, connectors etc. from the environment. The result is a form with a smooth surface enabling secure usage as a sex toy.

 

 

 

bigsiliconeready crossmeovedWe have made an easy DIY solution based on the body interaction vibrator development board, wireless charging module and a 3d printed silicone molding form.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

big wireless part a

Part A: The molding form consists of two parts.

bigwirelessform

3d print form A

Step 1: The form comes in 2 parts. Print both parts of the form. The STL file is called part A. After printing polish the inner part of the form as well as the surface between the two sides.

 

 

 

 

 

 

big wireless part bStep 2: Now print out part B. It is used to fasten the board, battery, receiver coil and receiver board.

 

 

 

 

 

 

verkabelung seeedwirelssechargingStep 3: Connect the + pad of the wireless charging receiver board with the pin marked + of the vibrator development board (that’s pin 1 of the MAX1555 battery charging IC). Connect – of the receiver with the GND pad of the vibrator development board. You need two short wires and have to solder them at the two boards.

 

 

 

 

wiresStep 4: Now wind up the wires connecting the board with the battery and the vibration motor. (The connection to the receiver board is not shown on the image.)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

battery and board installedbattery and board installed 2Step 5: Now attach the coil on the shorter “cross” of part B with some glue. There must be space between the coil and the outer longer cross. Then attach the board, battery and vibration motor as shown in the pictures. you can use some glue to fix these parts. Be sure to set the switch to the ON position.

 

 

 

 

 

The receiver board can be placed within the coil. It’s the small long board in the middle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

boardandbattery in half-formStep 6: Fix part B (with board, coil etc.) at part A. Be sure that there is enough space between them (min. 5mm).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

form and electronics inserted 1form and electronics inserted vogelansichtfilles form from topStep 7: Now attach the second part of part A. Use some tinkering wire. Double check: There must be space between Part A and part B. And there must be space between the coil and the upper edge of form A as the coil must be molded by the silicone.

 

 

 

 

 

aftermolding wireless formStep 8: Now pour silicone into the form. Use silicone with a high Shore A value. The higher the Shore A value is the higher is the firmness of the silicone form. We have used silicone with Shore A 45. You need about 90 ml silicone.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

bigsiliconeready removedStep 9: After the silicone gets hard, remove the tinkering wires and softly remove the form A. Remove overhanging part.

 

 

 

 

 

 

bigsiliconeready crossmeovedStep 10: Now you can remove the outer cross of part B.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

bigsiliconereadyvogel1That’s it. It takes about half an hour (without printing). Before using check carefully that the silicone is solid. Even if you skew the silicone form you should not be able to feel the edges of the vibrator development board. Otherwise there is the danger to get hurt. Use it as a massage toy on your own risk. For charging the batteries place the molded coil over the sender coil. The yellow charging LED should go on.

The next development step is a battery charging station!

 

 

 

 

 

Download 3d printing files from Thingiverse

Modify and construct your own with the online 3d modelling software Tinkercad: Form A, Form B

 

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