Tag: overmolding

BI2 – building a silicone sex toy

Now let’s build the first ESP8266 vibrator. I use the reliable design from this blog post and the new BI2 board. The new BI2 board can be controlled from any smart phone or computer.

As the BI2 board is round there is no need to build a case for the PCB and the LiPo. The easist way is to glue the battery directly on the ESP8266. Connect the battery and one or more vibration motors with the BI2 board.

 

The form consists of two parts which are fastened together with tinker wire. Before you have to insert the board with the vibration motor(s) and the battery. Therefore I used a handle. The handle could be put on top of the form. Then fix a USB connector to the handle. Plug in the BI2 board. Fasten the second half of the form.

Very important: The USB micro connector on the board must be protected from the silicone. When silicone flow between USB plug and connector it will be impossible to pull out the plug. I use wax to seal the USB micro connector. Read more here.

 

Now pour in the silicone, wait for some hours. And open softely the form.

 

Remove the overhanging silicone.

Here ist the Link to Tinkercad where you can edit the form and download STL files for your 3D printer: Download from Tinkercad: formhandle. Download ready to print zipped STL files.

Now build YOUR personal sex toy. Here you find the code for the ESP8266 as well as an IOT server application for quantifying your sex and remote control.

Smooth 3d printed vibrator form for silicone molding

shinybluemoreorlesscompleteWe started with printing sex toys (see here, here and here), then moved to printing mold forms for sex toys and finally we made sex toys which are partially silicone molded and partially printed. The best results were achieved with printing mold forms and fill them with silicone. But even there we have the problem that the surface isn’t really smooth and that it is hard to clean.

 

xtcTo overcome this problem we use a 3d print smoothing (XTC 3D) to smooth the surface. Application is very easy. It is like applying a transparent varnish. The results are impressive: The silicone gets a smooth shiny surface.

Shiny blue vibrator with vibration motor and air bubble in silicone formBut you can still see printer artefacts. To overcome this issue you could apply a thicker layer of XTC-3D. If you use a better printer than my daVinci 1.0 the “staircase effect” shouldn’t be a  problem at all. Another problem are tiny – sometimes quite large – air bubbles. To remove this air bubbles you need a vacuum chamber. So it is still not perfect, but it works and looks quite good…shinybluecomplete

OpenSCAD as silicone molding form generator


scadmoldform1tryballs_revisited_3_finalAn alternative to 3d-printed sex toys are silicone toys. For making such a sex toy you need a molding form, where you pour in the silicone. If you use Tinkercad to build the form for the balls motive, you may need more than one hour. If you are not experienced in 3d constrcution it may take days. That’s ok and can be fun as you can realize your fantasies step by step.

 

 

molded-with-ueberh-querBut if you want to change a detail or want to resize some parts of it, it will take a long time as you have to unbuilt parts of the form, make changes and then reassemble. Sometimes building from scratch is faster.

In the last blog post we have introduced OpenSCAD to construct a sex toy form. Now we want to build a hull for the sex toy for overmolding.

The basic idea is very simple:

  • Generate two forms. The smaller one has the size of the sex toy you want to make. The larger one will be the form where you pour in the silicone.
  • Than use the OpenSCAD difference command which “subtracts” or cuts out the smaller form from the larger form.

But it is more complicated:

  • You have to include a frame otherwise the form would fall over.
  • You need two forms (A and b) so you could open the form after molding.
  • Both forms must be fastened together when molding. Therefore you need holes for tinkering wire.

bi-round-12-scadWe have created a solution for molding form generation which is as flexible as our OpenSCAD sex toy generator. In addition you can change the thickness of the frame. Therefore you have to change the variable frame_thickness.

The SCAD script uses the module base which is already introduced. The generation of the frame is done in the module frame. The frame consists of a base plate and two supporting frames which stabilize the whole form. In addition there are extensions to the frame in the upper part of the form. These extensions will provide holes for fastening both forms.

The module complete_form constructs the form which is tricky. The union command is used to join the complete outer form and the frame. Now we have a filled form and have to remove the inner part. This is done by subtracting another complete form which is a bit smaller than the outer form. This is done with the difference command.

Another module hole provides all holes for the tinkering wire. At last we construct part A and part B of the molding form. Again the difference command is used to cut out one half of the form. This is done by subtracting a cube which is placed in the middle of the complete form. In addition the holes must be subtracted from the complete form.

You can build in the body interaction vibrator development board to make a vibrating dildo, controlled by motion or by another body interaction vibrator development board. Read more here.

Try out with the Thingiverse customizer.

Download the zipped SCAD file here: bi1-round12

Or copy and paste the source code to the SCAD software:

// bodyinteraction toy form and mold form generator
// radius of bottom part
r_bottom=25; // [15:5:80] 
// height of bottom part
h_bottom=30; // [10:5:80] 
// top rounding of bottom part
rounding=10; // [10:5:20]
// radius of ball 1 
r_ball1=21; // [15:5:50] 
// radius of ball 2
r_ball2=15; // [15:5:50] 
//radius of ball 3 
r_ball3=11; // [15:5:50] 
// radius of connecting cylinders
connector_radius=8; // [10:2:20]
// distance between balls and bottom part
ball_distance=15; // [10:2:40]
// offset (thickness of hull)
o=2; 
// thickness of frame
frame_thickness=4; 

height=h_bottom+3*ball_distance+r_ball1*2+r_ball2*2+r_ball3*2; echo(height);


// form part A
translate([0,0,height+frame_thickness])rotate([0,180,0])
difference() {
 complete_form(r_bottom,h_bottom,rounding,r_ball1,r_ball2,r_ball3,connector_radius,ball_distance,o,frame_thickness,height);
union(){
 translate([-r_bottom-o-10,0,-5])
 color("red")cube([2*r_bottom+2*o+20,r_bottom+2*o,height+frame_thickness+5]);
 holes(height,h_bottom);
 }
}
//form part B
translate([90,0,height+frame_thickness])rotate([0,180,0])
difference() {
 complete_form(r_bottom,h_bottom,rounding,r_ball1,r_ball2,r_ball3,connector_radius,ball_distance,o,frame_thickness,height);
union(){
 translate([-r_bottom-o-10,-r_bottom-o-2-10,-5])
 color("red")cube([2*r_bottom+2*o+20,r_bottom+2*o+10,height+frame_thickness+5]);
 holes(height,h_bottom);
 }
}

module holes (height,h_bottom){
for (i=[h_bottom+30:10:height])
 translate([r_bottom-1,5,i])rotate([90,90,0])
 color("green")cylinder(h=15,r=1,$fn=20);

for (i=[0:10:h_bottom+20])
 translate([r_bottom-3+10,5,i])rotate([90,90,0])
 color("blue")cylinder(h=15,r=1,$fn=20);

for (i=[h_bottom+30:10:height])
 translate([-r_bottom+1,5,i])rotate([90,90,0])
 color("green")cylinder(h=15,r=1,$fn=20);
for (i=[0:10:h_bottom+20])
 translate([-r_bottom-6,5,i])rotate([90,90,0])
 color("blue")cylinder(h=15,r=1,$fn=20);
}

module complete_form (r_bottom,h_bottom,rounding,r_ball1,r_ball2,r_ball3,connector_radius,ball_distance,o,frame_thickness,height) {
 difference() {
 union() {
 base(r_bottom+o,h_bottom+o,rounding,connector_radius+o,ball_distance-2*o,r_ball1+o,r_ball2+o,r_ball3+o);
 //complete frame
 frame(2*r_bottom+2*o,o,height,frame_thickness,r_bottom,h_bottom,rounding);
 };
 base(r_bottom,h_bottom,rounding,connector_radius,ball_distance,r_ball1,r_ball2,r_ball3);
 
 
};
}

module frame(width,o,height,frame_thickness,r_bottom,h_bottom,rounding) {
 //plate
 translate([-width/2,-width/2-2*o,height]) cube(size=[width,width+2*o,frame_thickness]);
 //frame1
 translate([-width/2,-frame_thickness/2,0]) cube(size=[width,frame_thickness,height]);
 //frame 1 extensions
 translate([-width/2-010,-frame_thickness/2,-5]) color("blue")cube(size=[12,frame_thickness,60]);
 translate([-width/2-10,-frame_thickness/2,55]) color("red")rotate([0,45,0]) cube(size=[12,frame_thickness,20]);
 
 translate([+width/2-2,-frame_thickness/2,-5]) color("green")cube(size=[12,frame_thickness,60]);
 translate([+width/2+01,-frame_thickness/2,47]) color("green")rotate([0,-45,0]) cube(size=[12,frame_thickness,20]);
 //frame2
 translate([-frame_thickness/2,-width/2,0]) cube(size=[frame_thickness,width, ,
 height]);
 // stabilize bottom with cylinder
 color("green")translate([0,0,h_bottom])rotate([00,0,0180])
 cylinder(h=r_bottom*2-rounding*.5, r1= r_bottom-rounding, r2=0);

}

module base (r_bottom,height,rounding,connector_radius,ball_distance, c1,c2,c3) {
 union () {
 // connector
 color("white")cylinder(h=height+2*ball_distance+c1*2+c2*2+c3*2,r=connector_radius,$fn=60);
 //base
 color("DarkSlateBlue") cylinder (h=height-0,r=r_bottom-rounding,$fn=60);
 color("MediumSlateBlue")cylinder (h=height-rounding,r=r_bottom,$fn=60);
 translate([0,0,height-rounding]) color("SlateBlue") rotate_extrude() 
 translate([r_bottom-rounding,0,0]) circle(r=rounding,$fn=120);
 // circle (ball) 1, 2 and 3
 translate([0,0,height+ball_distance+c1]) color("Indigo")sphere(r=c1,center=true,$fn=60);
 translate([0,0,height+2*ball_distance+2*c1+c2]) color("Violet")sphere(r=c2,center=true,$fn=60);
 translate([0,0,height+3*ball_distance+2*c1+2*c2+c3]) color("Purple")sphere(r=c3,center=true,$fn=60);
 }
}

 

Go to the first part of the SCAD tutorial

Moving dildo with motor driven skeleton

skeleton-without-hull-servo-bi1So far we have used vibration motors for our sex toys. Vibration motors are cheap, powerful, easy to control and robust actuators. That’s why they are part of most sex toys. But what about moving or touching  objects. Obviously we need some mechanics, maybe joints and gears? Or is there a simple option? A skeleton?

I realized the idea for using some type of skeleton for moving a dildo when I saw the video of a naked Pleo – one of the best artificial life forms ever.

skeleton-hull-servo-body-interaction-board

On www.thingiverse.com you will find more inspiration for using a skeleton to move something. The design is very simple.

The skeleton is composed of a number of vortexes. The holes are for connecting all vortexes and a servo with a nylon wire or similar.

backbone_skeleton_24

In addition we need a handle where the vortexes are fastened to. There is also space for a servo. Then use a nylon wire to connect the vortexes with the servo. You can drive the servo with a Arduino development board or you use the body interaction development board as described here.

servo_handle_b

The servo should turn only 15-30 degree or so. If you use the body interaction development board please copy the following code and upload the code to the board.

#include <TinyServo.h>

// servo control with the body interaction development board using the TinyServo library
// -- adaption of the demo script by
// tylernt@gmail.com's ATTiny Hardware Timer Assisted Servo Library v1.0 20-Nov-13
// http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=198337.0;attach=71790

const byte SERVOS = 1; // number of servos is 1
const byte servoPin[SERVOS] = { 7 }; // servo is connected to PA1 which is pin 7
#define SERVO 0 // our servo is given the name "SERVO"

void setup() {
 setupServos();
}

void loop() {
 moveServo(SERVO, 0); // move servo to 0°
 delay(1000);
 moveServo(SERVO, 30); // move servo to 30°
 delay(2000);
}

In addition we need a wrapping for the skeleton. This can be made using these two forms (download STL files).

nonmech

Use flexible silicone and poor it in the form. The thickness of the wrapping is a bit too large – it rather hinders the skeleton in its movements. But it works!

sceleton-hull

Now we can put everything together.

 

Download on Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1736282

 

Tinker with Tinkercad!
Form: https://tinkercad.com/things/e8yscABu9Al
Skeleton: https://tinkercad.com/things/dfbMQsE4Mtl
Servo handle: https://tinkercad.com/things/5EHHrqM5sqC

YouTube: https://youtu.be/F1b8bGbuSHw

New vibrator design “fusion”

 

fusion-quer-look-throughbodyinteraction designed a lot of vibrating toys, some are usable as massage devices, some are explicit sex toys (vibrator ring, balls), some are experimental (collar). Everyone is motion controlled. If you have more than one they will influence each other remotely, eg. a vibrator and a vibrator ring.

unboxing-3

But a device like a classic big vibrator is still missing. So we designed the “fusion” which is approx 19cm long and up to 4+cm in diameter. It is called fusion as the case is made of silicone and 3d printed material (ABS).

fusion-quer-2

We have put the body interaction vibrator development board, motor and battery in a silicone form. There is an on/off switch – so when you travel the vibrator doesn’t wake up when it is moved. And you can charge the battery with a USB micro connector. There is a spacious inlay for the electronics, so it will be easy to get it done.

Pros:

  • easy to charge the battery via USB
  • on/off switch
  • hard handle
  • flexible upper part
  • large (if you like this)
  • ISP interface (“hacker port”) accessible

Cons:

  • only the silicone part of the form can be put under water for cleaning

What do you need?

  • 200 ml silicone with high shore A rate, eg. shore A 45 from silikonfabrik.de
  • optional: special colour for silicone molding
  • 3d print of the molding form, inlay and closure
  • tinker wire
  • body interaction vibrator development board with LiPo and motor (or similar Arduino boards)
  • bin for preparing the silicone, something to stir the silicone

How much is it?

  • Board, battery, motor: 30$ (buy at Tindie)
  • Silicone: 10$
  • 3d Prints: less than 5$

Step by step instructions

Step 1: Print out the inlay, the form and the enclosure

round_something_05_final

Download as zip-file: Fusion

Download at Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1505539

Step 2: Prepare the inlay: Insert the body interaction board and the LiPo battery

The body interaction vibrator development board is inserted into the provided rails. It it doesn’t fit in use a file to remove printing artefacts. Use some glue to fix the board. Then insert the battery and fix it.

Important: The Micro USB connector must be above the upper part of the inlay.

inlay with description

Step 3: fix the wires of the vibration motor

The vibration motor will hang down from the inlay as the inlay will be put in the form upside down. You can influence the position of the motor by shortening the wire or fixing the wire to e.g. to the battery. In this case the wire of the motor was threaded between battery and board. Therefore the  motor will be in the middle of the vibrator.

inlay-inner-partfusion-looking-through-2in the center there is the overmolded vibration motor

Step 5: Prepare the form

Use some tinker wire to “press” both parts of the form tight together.molding-form-emptyUse some wax to fix little holes in the form where the printer failed. (These are the white spots)

drying-form-with-wax

Step 6: Insert inlay into the form

There must be some space between inlay and form for the silicone.

Remark: The two wedge like forms at both sides of the inlay help to hold the inlay. The wedge can be removed after molding.inlay-in-molding-form

Step 7: Cast the silicone

Prepare the silicone as the producer recommends. It takes some time to pour the large amount of silicone into the narrow form. The silicone we use must be used within 10 minutes. So start at once after preparing the silicone.

Important: The USB micro connector, the switch and the ISP connector shouldn’t be dashed with silicone. If this happens remove the silicone. Maybe some silicone will remain behind. This can be removed later when the silicone is solid.molded

The battery is covered with silicone, the USB connecor and switch are not.drying-seen-from-top

Step 8: Remove the form

Remove the tinker wire. Remove overhanging part of the silicone. Carefully tear both parts of the form away. You can use a knife, but be careful not to “hurt” the vibrator. Remove overhanging silicone at the vibrator. Also remove the two wedge like forms at both sides of the inlay.

unboxing-fusionfusion looking through complete

Step 9: Install the closure

Now you can put the closure on the inlay. Fix the closure with glue. (Be careful! The USB connector is not very strong.) closed-inlayround_something_055_final_cap_onlyfusion-closure

Tinker, share and download from Tinkercad:

form and inlay: https://tinkercad.com/things/b8nQxRn4XWl

closure: https://tinkercad.com/things/dhgtgeaYG0B

Download as zip-file: Fusion

Download at Thingiverse:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1505539

 

New fusion 3d printed and silicone molded vibrator

fusion tinkercadThis is the initial design. The round curved form will be in silicone with vibration motor within (vibration motor not shown on sketch). The red part is 3d printed. It is the enclosure for the body interaction vibrator development board and LiPo battery. You can plug-in the Micro USB connector for battery charging. In addition there is an on/off switch e.g. for travelling.

Update for “balls revisted” – silicone molded vibrator

balls-revisited-v3-wit-v4-inlay-blueThe “ball revisited” silicone molded vibrator uses a wireless charging module. Unfortunately there are different version available. The version with some textile like cable jackets have a different inner radius of the receiver coil.new-inlay-from-topWe have changed the mounting on top of the picture as this type of the receiver coil needs a little more space. In addition the encasement is a bit larger. new-inlay-seen-from-side-BThere is enough space for the body intercation board (top), wireless charging board (right) and the LiPo battery (below).new-inlay-seen-from-side-BFinally the wire of the vibration motor is glued in the middle of the encasement.new-inlay-from-belowPlease follow the “old” instruction – nothing has changed. When printing out the 3d parts use the new version 4 of the inlay. All 3d printing STL files at Thingiverse

 

Wireless battery charging of the body interaction vibrator development board

bisiliconeformfilledreadybigsiliconereadyvogel2One major Problem oft DIY electronic sex toys (or massage wands) are the need to charge the batteries. Usually the batteries are charged via the USB connector. This means that there is a physical connection between the sex toy and the USB connector, making it impossible to mold the whole sex toy with eg. silicone.

 

 

seeedwirelesscharging

The solution is to use a wireless charging module (eg. this module from Seeedstudio). It comes in two parts: The sender (IN) and the receiver (OUT). Both are connected with a coil. If you place the two coils close together, the sender coils induces power in the receiver coil. Though you can share the batteries wireless. The receiver could be molded, separating the electronics, batteries, connectors etc. from the environment. The result is a form with a smooth surface enabling secure usage as a sex toy.

 

 

 

bigsiliconeready crossmeovedWe have made an easy DIY solution based on the body interaction vibrator development board, wireless charging module and a 3d printed silicone molding form.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

big wireless part a

Part A: The molding form consists of two parts.

bigwirelessform

3d print form A

Step 1: The form comes in 2 parts. Print both parts of the form. The STL file is called part A. After printing polish the inner part of the form as well as the surface between the two sides.

 

 

 

 

 

 

big wireless part bStep 2: Now print out part B. It is used to fasten the board, battery, receiver coil and receiver board.

 

 

 

 

 

 

verkabelung seeedwirelssechargingStep 3: Connect the + pad of the wireless charging receiver board with the pin marked + of the vibrator development board (that’s pin 1 of the MAX1555 battery charging IC). Connect – of the receiver with the GND pad of the vibrator development board. You need two short wires and have to solder them at the two boards.

 

 

 

 

wiresStep 4: Now wind up the wires connecting the board with the battery and the vibration motor. (The connection to the receiver board is not shown on the image.)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

battery and board installedbattery and board installed 2Step 5: Now attach the coil on the shorter “cross” of part B with some glue. There must be space between the coil and the outer longer cross. Then attach the board, battery and vibration motor as shown in the pictures. you can use some glue to fix these parts. Be sure to set the switch to the ON position.

 

 

 

 

 

The receiver board can be placed within the coil. It’s the small long board in the middle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

boardandbattery in half-formStep 6: Fix part B (with board, coil etc.) at part A. Be sure that there is enough space between them (min. 5mm).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

form and electronics inserted 1form and electronics inserted vogelansichtfilles form from topStep 7: Now attach the second part of part A. Use some tinkering wire. Double check: There must be space between Part A and part B. And there must be space between the coil and the upper edge of form A as the coil must be molded by the silicone.

 

 

 

 

 

aftermolding wireless formStep 8: Now pour silicone into the form. Use silicone with a high Shore A value. The higher the Shore A value is the higher is the firmness of the silicone form. We have used silicone with Shore A 45. You need about 90 ml silicone.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

bigsiliconeready removedStep 9: After the silicone gets hard, remove the tinkering wires and softly remove the form A. Remove overhanging part.

 

 

 

 

 

 

bigsiliconeready crossmeovedStep 10: Now you can remove the outer cross of part B.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

bigsiliconereadyvogel1That’s it. It takes about half an hour (without printing). Before using check carefully that the silicone is solid. Even if you skew the silicone form you should not be able to feel the edges of the vibrator development board. Otherwise there is the danger to get hurt. Use it as a massage toy on your own risk. For charging the batteries place the molded coil over the sender coil. The yellow charging LED should go on.

The next development step is a battery charging station!

 

 

 

 

 

Download 3d printing files from Thingiverse

Modify and construct your own with the online 3d modelling software Tinkercad: Form A, Form B

 

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