Tag: Tinkercad

BI2 – building a silicone sex toy

Now let’s build the first ESP8266 vibrator. I use the reliable design from this blog post and the new BI2 board. The new BI2 board can be controlled from any smart phone or computer.

As the BI2 board is round there is no need to build a case for the PCB and the LiPo. The easist way is to glue the battery directly on the ESP8266. Connect the battery and one or more vibration motors with the BI2 board.

 

The form consists of two parts which are fastened together with tinker wire. Before you have to insert the board with the vibration motor(s) and the battery. Therefore I used a handle. The handle could be put on top of the form. Then fix a USB connector to the handle. Plug in the BI2 board. Fasten the second half of the form.

Very important: The USB micro connector on the board must be protected from the silicone. When silicone flow between USB plug and connector it will be impossible to pull out the plug. I use wax to seal the USB micro connector. Read more here.

 

Now pour in the silicone, wait for some hours. And open softely the form.

 

Remove the overhanging silicone.

Here ist the Link to Tinkercad where you can edit the form and download STL files for your 3D printer: Download from Tinkercad: formhandle. Download ready to print zipped STL files.

Now build YOUR personal sex toy. Here you find the code for the ESP8266 as well as an IOT server application for quantifying your sex and remote control.

Basic Node for the Internet of Sex Toys – part 2: 3d printed form, assembly, molding

In this series of posts we describe how-to make a vibrating sex toy which is part of the Internet of Things.

part 1: Basic Node for the Internet of Sex Toys

part 2: Molding the Basic Node

part 3: Software for the Basic Node

In part 2 we describe how-to make a mold form for the basic node. We need three forms:

  • the mold form which consists of two parts
  • the inlay which protects the electronics of the basic node
  • a “hanging” for the inlay

 

 

 

We used Tinkercad to construct the parts. The molding form is based on Tinkercad’s banana form. You can edit and share them from your browser:

Inlay: https://tinkercad.com/things/h5fFOBqlmjw

Hanging: https://tinkercad.com/things/jUxc2oAamww

Form: https://tinkercad.com/things/6HS3XScOsCM

Instructions

Print out all forms. The STL files are available at Thingiverse. You might want to use XTC or similar for smoothing the inner part of the mold form.

Assembling the Inlay

We use the inlay to protect the electronics.

Simply put the electronics inside so that the upper body of the switch is on the same level as the upper inlay. We use hot glue to fix the basic node.

Then fix the receiver coil of the wireless charging module on top of the inlay. The next step is to fix the hanging at the inlay.

Now fix the LiPo battery on the bottom side of the inlay using hot glue or similar. Fix the wires. Finally you might fix the wires of the vibration motor next to the middle of the LiPo battery.

Use tinkering wire to fix both parts of the molding form.

Put the inlay in the form. Fix the hanging with a tape or similar. The motors shouldn’t touch the inner part of the form.

Now prepare the silicone. We use Shore A 45 silicone (approx. 250 ml) from Silikonfabrik.de. It is hard but still a bit flexible. You may add color, too. You have about 10 minutes to stir the silicone and poor it in the form.

After some hours you can remove the form. As you can see there is overhang which make removing the form very hard. The form could break when removing. Better preparation of the form (eg rasping) could improve the results.

If the blue LED of the Wemos board is still active you were successful.

Now you need a charging station. The construction is shown here. It is also possible to connect the sender (or transmitter) module with a 5V power source (eg. from the USB port). Just put the bottom of the molded basic node on the sender coil.

 

In the next part we introduce an updated version of the software including over the air update and WiFi management.

OpenSCAD as silicone molding form generator


scadmoldform1tryballs_revisited_3_finalAn alternative to 3d-printed sex toys are silicone toys. For making such a sex toy you need a molding form, where you pour in the silicone. If you use Tinkercad to build the form for the balls motive, you may need more than one hour. If you are not experienced in 3d constrcution it may take days. That’s ok and can be fun as you can realize your fantasies step by step.

 

 

molded-with-ueberh-querBut if you want to change a detail or want to resize some parts of it, it will take a long time as you have to unbuilt parts of the form, make changes and then reassemble. Sometimes building from scratch is faster.

In the last blog post we have introduced OpenSCAD to construct a sex toy form. Now we want to build a hull for the sex toy for overmolding.

The basic idea is very simple:

  • Generate two forms. The smaller one has the size of the sex toy you want to make. The larger one will be the form where you pour in the silicone.
  • Than use the OpenSCAD difference command which “subtracts” or cuts out the smaller form from the larger form.

But it is more complicated:

  • You have to include a frame otherwise the form would fall over.
  • You need two forms (A and b) so you could open the form after molding.
  • Both forms must be fastened together when molding. Therefore you need holes for tinkering wire.

bi-round-12-scadWe have created a solution for molding form generation which is as flexible as our OpenSCAD sex toy generator. In addition you can change the thickness of the frame. Therefore you have to change the variable frame_thickness.

The SCAD script uses the module base which is already introduced. The generation of the frame is done in the module frame. The frame consists of a base plate and two supporting frames which stabilize the whole form. In addition there are extensions to the frame in the upper part of the form. These extensions will provide holes for fastening both forms.

The module complete_form constructs the form which is tricky. The union command is used to join the complete outer form and the frame. Now we have a filled form and have to remove the inner part. This is done by subtracting another complete form which is a bit smaller than the outer form. This is done with the difference command.

Another module hole provides all holes for the tinkering wire. At last we construct part A and part B of the molding form. Again the difference command is used to cut out one half of the form. This is done by subtracting a cube which is placed in the middle of the complete form. In addition the holes must be subtracted from the complete form.

You can build in the body interaction vibrator development board to make a vibrating dildo, controlled by motion or by another body interaction vibrator development board. Read more here.

Try out with the Thingiverse customizer.

Download the zipped SCAD file here: bi1-round12

Or copy and paste the source code to the SCAD software:

// bodyinteraction toy form and mold form generator
// radius of bottom part
r_bottom=25; // [15:5:80] 
// height of bottom part
h_bottom=30; // [10:5:80] 
// top rounding of bottom part
rounding=10; // [10:5:20]
// radius of ball 1 
r_ball1=21; // [15:5:50] 
// radius of ball 2
r_ball2=15; // [15:5:50] 
//radius of ball 3 
r_ball3=11; // [15:5:50] 
// radius of connecting cylinders
connector_radius=8; // [10:2:20]
// distance between balls and bottom part
ball_distance=15; // [10:2:40]
// offset (thickness of hull)
o=2; 
// thickness of frame
frame_thickness=4; 

height=h_bottom+3*ball_distance+r_ball1*2+r_ball2*2+r_ball3*2; echo(height);


// form part A
translate([0,0,height+frame_thickness])rotate([0,180,0])
difference() {
 complete_form(r_bottom,h_bottom,rounding,r_ball1,r_ball2,r_ball3,connector_radius,ball_distance,o,frame_thickness,height);
union(){
 translate([-r_bottom-o-10,0,-5])
 color("red")cube([2*r_bottom+2*o+20,r_bottom+2*o,height+frame_thickness+5]);
 holes(height,h_bottom);
 }
}
//form part B
translate([90,0,height+frame_thickness])rotate([0,180,0])
difference() {
 complete_form(r_bottom,h_bottom,rounding,r_ball1,r_ball2,r_ball3,connector_radius,ball_distance,o,frame_thickness,height);
union(){
 translate([-r_bottom-o-10,-r_bottom-o-2-10,-5])
 color("red")cube([2*r_bottom+2*o+20,r_bottom+2*o+10,height+frame_thickness+5]);
 holes(height,h_bottom);
 }
}

module holes (height,h_bottom){
for (i=[h_bottom+30:10:height])
 translate([r_bottom-1,5,i])rotate([90,90,0])
 color("green")cylinder(h=15,r=1,$fn=20);

for (i=[0:10:h_bottom+20])
 translate([r_bottom-3+10,5,i])rotate([90,90,0])
 color("blue")cylinder(h=15,r=1,$fn=20);

for (i=[h_bottom+30:10:height])
 translate([-r_bottom+1,5,i])rotate([90,90,0])
 color("green")cylinder(h=15,r=1,$fn=20);
for (i=[0:10:h_bottom+20])
 translate([-r_bottom-6,5,i])rotate([90,90,0])
 color("blue")cylinder(h=15,r=1,$fn=20);
}

module complete_form (r_bottom,h_bottom,rounding,r_ball1,r_ball2,r_ball3,connector_radius,ball_distance,o,frame_thickness,height) {
 difference() {
 union() {
 base(r_bottom+o,h_bottom+o,rounding,connector_radius+o,ball_distance-2*o,r_ball1+o,r_ball2+o,r_ball3+o);
 //complete frame
 frame(2*r_bottom+2*o,o,height,frame_thickness,r_bottom,h_bottom,rounding);
 };
 base(r_bottom,h_bottom,rounding,connector_radius,ball_distance,r_ball1,r_ball2,r_ball3);
 
 
};
}

module frame(width,o,height,frame_thickness,r_bottom,h_bottom,rounding) {
 //plate
 translate([-width/2,-width/2-2*o,height]) cube(size=[width,width+2*o,frame_thickness]);
 //frame1
 translate([-width/2,-frame_thickness/2,0]) cube(size=[width,frame_thickness,height]);
 //frame 1 extensions
 translate([-width/2-010,-frame_thickness/2,-5]) color("blue")cube(size=[12,frame_thickness,60]);
 translate([-width/2-10,-frame_thickness/2,55]) color("red")rotate([0,45,0]) cube(size=[12,frame_thickness,20]);
 
 translate([+width/2-2,-frame_thickness/2,-5]) color("green")cube(size=[12,frame_thickness,60]);
 translate([+width/2+01,-frame_thickness/2,47]) color("green")rotate([0,-45,0]) cube(size=[12,frame_thickness,20]);
 //frame2
 translate([-frame_thickness/2,-width/2,0]) cube(size=[frame_thickness,width, ,
 height]);
 // stabilize bottom with cylinder
 color("green")translate([0,0,h_bottom])rotate([00,0,0180])
 cylinder(h=r_bottom*2-rounding*.5, r1= r_bottom-rounding, r2=0);

}

module base (r_bottom,height,rounding,connector_radius,ball_distance, c1,c2,c3) {
 union () {
 // connector
 color("white")cylinder(h=height+2*ball_distance+c1*2+c2*2+c3*2,r=connector_radius,$fn=60);
 //base
 color("DarkSlateBlue") cylinder (h=height-0,r=r_bottom-rounding,$fn=60);
 color("MediumSlateBlue")cylinder (h=height-rounding,r=r_bottom,$fn=60);
 translate([0,0,height-rounding]) color("SlateBlue") rotate_extrude() 
 translate([r_bottom-rounding,0,0]) circle(r=rounding,$fn=120);
 // circle (ball) 1, 2 and 3
 translate([0,0,height+ball_distance+c1]) color("Indigo")sphere(r=c1,center=true,$fn=60);
 translate([0,0,height+2*ball_distance+2*c1+c2]) color("Violet")sphere(r=c2,center=true,$fn=60);
 translate([0,0,height+3*ball_distance+2*c1+2*c2+c3]) color("Purple")sphere(r=c3,center=true,$fn=60);
 }
}

 

Go to the first part of the SCAD tutorial

OpenSCAD as sex toy generator

balls_scadOpenSCAD is a free software tool for creating 3d objects. But it is different from other CAD tools like Tinkercad or Freecad. Instead of using the mouse to select and modify 3d objects you have to use a description language. Making a 3d object in OpenSCAD is a bit like programming. For creating a sphere you just have to type sphere(r=10); where r is the radius of the sphere. For creating a cube or a cylinder just type in the appropriate command. When done select compile from the menu and you’re object will be displayed.

Just download the OpenSCAD software, install the tool and try out a command. You can copy and paste the dildo generator source code (at the end of this blog post) and try to change the parameters. Another option is to use the customizer module of the Thingiverse platform.

Brief Intro to OpenSCAD

openscadintro If you want to create a sphere not in the origin but somewhere else you have to shift the object using the translate command. For creating the second smaller sphere use

translate([30,0,0]) sphere(r=10);

The translate command moves the sphere objects on the x-axis by 30 points.

To visualize the form use the design menu and select “compile” or “compile and render”. Rendering takes some time (up to some minutes) but it will give you a correct preview of your form.

To build more complex objects you have to use the union or difference command. The union command puts simple objects together. With the difference command you can cut out something e.g. to make a ring. openscadintro2 You can download a STL-file (select “export STL” from the menu) and print out the form with a 3d printer.

OpenScad can be used to create sex toys as shown by Mr O. He used OpenScad to create basic building blocks for sex toys which can be combined and changed in size. Moreover with OpenScad you can make generative designs. For example you can make a generative dildo which can be individualized by changing parameters like height, length etc.

Generative Dildo Project

Let us create the “balls” dildo which is introduced in Silicone overmolded vibrator – balls revisited and Update for “balls revisted” – silicone molded vibrator.

molded-querThe dildo consists of 6 forms:

  • three spheres with individual radius
  • a base which is made of cylinders
  • and an iterative use of circles to make the upper top of the base to be round

We use the module command to encapsulate the commands for creating the dildo. A module is very similar to functions or procedures in other programming languages, but they do not return a value. They just execute the commands in the module. The definition of the module starts with its parameters.

module base (r_bottom,height,rounding,connector_radius,ball_distance, c1,c2,c3) {
  ...commands for creating the dildo...
}

c1, c2 and c3 are the radius of the spheres. r_bottom is the radius of the base part and height the height if the base parts.

balls_scad

Now you can produce different versions of the ball motive by entering different parameters when you call the module base. With the following parameters the form at the left side will be generated:

base(50,60,10,10,30,15,25,35);

 

 

ball_scad_alt_parametersThis form will be made when using the following parameters:

base(60,30,10,10,30,20,35,45);

 

 

 

Make your own generative sex toy design and publish it

The Thingiverse platform is able to create objects made with OpenSCAD. Just upload the SCAD-file to Thingiverse using the customizer option. Now you can change the parameters within Thingiverse and generate a customized STL-file for 3d printing. Try it out with the Thingiverse customizer (as long as nobody complains…).

Download the SCAD file source code here: form_only

Or copy & paste the following SCAD code to generate the “balls” sex toy:

// bodyinteraction toy form

// radius of bottom part
r_bottom=50; // [50:5:80] 
// height of bottom part
h_bottom=60; // [10:5:80] 
// top rounding of bottom part
rounding=10; // [10:5:20]
// radius of ball 1 
r_ball1=35; // [15:5:50] 
// radius of ball 2
r_ball2=25; // [15:5:50] 
//radius of ball 3 
r_ball3=20; // [15:5:50] 
// radius of connecting cylinders
connector_radius=10; // [10:2:20]
// distance between balls and bottom part
ball_distance=30; // [10:2:40]


base(r_bottom,h_bottom,rounding,connector_radius,ball_distance,r_ball1,r_ball2,r_ball3);

module base (r_bottom,height,rounding,connector_radius,ball_distance, c1,c2,c3) {
 union () {
 // connector
 color("white")cylinder(h=height+2*ball_distance+c1*2+c2*2+c3*2,r=connector_radius,$fn=60);
 //base
 color("DarkSlateBlue") cylinder (h=height-0,r=r_bottom-rounding,$fn=60);
 color("MediumSlateBlue")cylinder (h=height-rounding,r=r_bottom,$fn=60);
 translate([0,0,height-rounding]) color("SlateBlue") rotate_extrude() 
 translate([r_bottom-rounding,0,0]) circle(r=rounding,$fn=120);
 // circle (ball) 1, 2 and 3
 translate([0,0,height+ball_distance+c1]) color("Indigo")sphere(r=c1,center=true,$fn=60);
 translate([0,0,height+2*ball_distance+2*c1+c2]) color("Violet")sphere(r=c2,center=true,$fn=60);
 translate([0,0,height+3*ball_distance+2*c1+2*c2+c3]) color("Purple")sphere(r=c3,center=true,$fn=60);
 }
}

 

Next part: Silicone sex toy mold generator with OpenSCAD

Moving dildo with motor driven skeleton

skeleton-without-hull-servo-bi1So far we have used vibration motors for our sex toys. Vibration motors are cheap, powerful, easy to control and robust actuators. That’s why they are part of most sex toys. But what about moving or touching  objects. Obviously we need some mechanics, maybe joints and gears? Or is there a simple option? A skeleton?

I realized the idea for using some type of skeleton for moving a dildo when I saw the video of a naked Pleo – one of the best artificial life forms ever.

skeleton-hull-servo-body-interaction-board

On www.thingiverse.com you will find more inspiration for using a skeleton to move something. The design is very simple.

The skeleton is composed of a number of vortexes. The holes are for connecting all vortexes and a servo with a nylon wire or similar.

backbone_skeleton_24

In addition we need a handle where the vortexes are fastened to. There is also space for a servo. Then use a nylon wire to connect the vortexes with the servo. You can drive the servo with a Arduino development board or you use the body interaction development board as described here.

servo_handle_b

The servo should turn only 15-30 degree or so. If you use the body interaction development board please copy the following code and upload the code to the board.

#include <TinyServo.h>

// servo control with the body interaction development board using the TinyServo library
// -- adaption of the demo script by
// tylernt@gmail.com's ATTiny Hardware Timer Assisted Servo Library v1.0 20-Nov-13
// http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=198337.0;attach=71790

const byte SERVOS = 1; // number of servos is 1
const byte servoPin[SERVOS] = { 7 }; // servo is connected to PA1 which is pin 7
#define SERVO 0 // our servo is given the name "SERVO"

void setup() {
 setupServos();
}

void loop() {
 moveServo(SERVO, 0); // move servo to 0°
 delay(1000);
 moveServo(SERVO, 30); // move servo to 30°
 delay(2000);
}

In addition we need a wrapping for the skeleton. This can be made using these two forms (download STL files).

nonmech

Use flexible silicone and poor it in the form. The thickness of the wrapping is a bit too large – it rather hinders the skeleton in its movements. But it works!

sceleton-hull

Now we can put everything together.

 

Download on Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1736282

 

Tinker with Tinkercad!
Form: https://tinkercad.com/things/e8yscABu9Al
Skeleton: https://tinkercad.com/things/dfbMQsE4Mtl
Servo handle: https://tinkercad.com/things/5EHHrqM5sqC

YouTube: https://youtu.be/F1b8bGbuSHw

New vibrator design “fusion”

 

fusion-quer-look-throughbodyinteraction designed a lot of vibrating toys, some are usable as massage devices, some are explicit sex toys (vibrator ring, balls), some are experimental (collar). Everyone is motion controlled. If you have more than one they will influence each other remotely, eg. a vibrator and a vibrator ring.

unboxing-3

But a device like a classic big vibrator is still missing. So we designed the “fusion” which is approx 19cm long and up to 4+cm in diameter. It is called fusion as the case is made of silicone and 3d printed material (ABS).

fusion-quer-2

We have put the body interaction vibrator development board, motor and battery in a silicone form. There is an on/off switch – so when you travel the vibrator doesn’t wake up when it is moved. And you can charge the battery with a USB micro connector. There is a spacious inlay for the electronics, so it will be easy to get it done.

Pros:

  • easy to charge the battery via USB
  • on/off switch
  • hard handle
  • flexible upper part
  • large (if you like this)
  • ISP interface (“hacker port”) accessible

Cons:

  • only the silicone part of the form can be put under water for cleaning

What do you need?

  • 200 ml silicone with high shore A rate, eg. shore A 45 from silikonfabrik.de
  • optional: special colour for silicone molding
  • 3d print of the molding form, inlay and closure
  • tinker wire
  • body interaction vibrator development board with LiPo and motor (or similar Arduino boards)
  • bin for preparing the silicone, something to stir the silicone

How much is it?

  • Board, battery, motor: 30$ (buy at Tindie)
  • Silicone: 10$
  • 3d Prints: less than 5$

Step by step instructions

Step 1: Print out the inlay, the form and the enclosure

round_something_05_final

Download as zip-file: Fusion

Download at Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1505539

Step 2: Prepare the inlay: Insert the body interaction board and the LiPo battery

The body interaction vibrator development board is inserted into the provided rails. It it doesn’t fit in use a file to remove printing artefacts. Use some glue to fix the board. Then insert the battery and fix it.

Important: The Micro USB connector must be above the upper part of the inlay.

inlay with description

Step 3: fix the wires of the vibration motor

The vibration motor will hang down from the inlay as the inlay will be put in the form upside down. You can influence the position of the motor by shortening the wire or fixing the wire to e.g. to the battery. In this case the wire of the motor was threaded between battery and board. Therefore the  motor will be in the middle of the vibrator.

inlay-inner-partfusion-looking-through-2in the center there is the overmolded vibration motor

Step 5: Prepare the form

Use some tinker wire to “press” both parts of the form tight together.molding-form-emptyUse some wax to fix little holes in the form where the printer failed. (These are the white spots)

drying-form-with-wax

Step 6: Insert inlay into the form

There must be some space between inlay and form for the silicone.

Remark: The two wedge like forms at both sides of the inlay help to hold the inlay. The wedge can be removed after molding.inlay-in-molding-form

Step 7: Cast the silicone

Prepare the silicone as the producer recommends. It takes some time to pour the large amount of silicone into the narrow form. The silicone we use must be used within 10 minutes. So start at once after preparing the silicone.

Important: The USB micro connector, the switch and the ISP connector shouldn’t be dashed with silicone. If this happens remove the silicone. Maybe some silicone will remain behind. This can be removed later when the silicone is solid.molded

The battery is covered with silicone, the USB connecor and switch are not.drying-seen-from-top

Step 8: Remove the form

Remove the tinker wire. Remove overhanging part of the silicone. Carefully tear both parts of the form away. You can use a knife, but be careful not to “hurt” the vibrator. Remove overhanging silicone at the vibrator. Also remove the two wedge like forms at both sides of the inlay.

unboxing-fusionfusion looking through complete

Step 9: Install the closure

Now you can put the closure on the inlay. Fix the closure with glue. (Be careful! The USB connector is not very strong.) closed-inlayround_something_055_final_cap_onlyfusion-closure

Tinker, share and download from Tinkercad:

form and inlay: https://tinkercad.com/things/b8nQxRn4XWl

closure: https://tinkercad.com/things/dhgtgeaYG0B

Download as zip-file: Fusion

Download at Thingiverse:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1505539

 

USB powered charging station for the silicone molded vibrator

charging-station-in-action-with-body-interaction-vibrator-so-much-balls-smallWe made a DIY silicone molded vibrator (see here, here and here) using the Arduino compatible body interaction vibrator development board and a wireless charging module. Now we need a charging station where you can put your vibrator for battery charging.

We need a simple box for the wireless charging sender (transmitter) module and the coil. In addition we need a USB cable which we will cut though and connect to the charging module.

It is important to keep the distance between sender and receiver coil as small as possible. The larger the distance is the less power will be transmitted. Therefore the plate where you put the vibrator must be very thin. There are different modules available.

 

What do you need?

  • A USB cable
  • Wireless charging sender (transmitter) eg. from Seeed Studio, 5V input. The sender (transmitter) will be placed in the charging station. The receiver module will be part of the vibrator. There are different modules available. Look for a 5V input module.seeedwirelesscharging

Instructions:

A. Print out part A and B. Download STL files (zip file)

charging_station_02_final

 

B. Cut a USB cable. Plug the cable through the hole of form B.

C. Now connect the USB wires with the sender module. Solder the red wire to the (+) pad on the wireless charging sender. Solder the black wire to the (-) pad.

charging-cable-through-and-USB-cable-soldering-to-board

D. Glue the sender board on the bottom of the red form. Put some glue on the cable to fix it. We used hot glue.

charging-board-and-cable-glued

E. Now glue the black form and the sender coil together. We used simple “UHU”-like glue. If the distance between coil and form is too large the charging could be rather slow. So don’t use too much glue.

charging-coil-glued

F. Now put together both parts. Again we used a simple glue.

charging-station-complet-with-USB-cable

G. Insert the USB connector to your PC or any other source. Now the vibrator should be charged which is indicated by an orange LED.

charging-station-in-action-with-body-interaction-vibrator-so-much-ballsReady! Have fun with your collection of wireless DIY Arduino-compatible vibrators.

 

Download STL files (zip file)

All files at Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1488428

Tinker and share with Tinkercad:

Part A https://tinkercad.com/things/ijyPmLD1B9e

Part B https://tinkercad.com/things/emWnXUkiH1J

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